Blood Python

Blood Python(Pythocurtus), also known as the Short Python, is a non-venomous snake. It is relatively stout and has distinct patterns on its body which makes it easily recognizable. This snake is mainly found in Southeast Asia.

Blood Pythons are not easily kept in captivity, mostly due to the possibility of wild individuals being infected with internal parasites; however, it is said that providing enough space for a Blood Python to fully stretch its body can effectively reduce the occurrence of chronic respiratory diseases.

Chinese name: 血蟒

Alias:

Short-tailed Python, Short Python

Binomial name:

Python curtus

Kingdom:

Animalia

Phylum:

Chordata

Subphylum:

Vertebrata

Class:

Reptilia

Order:

Squamata

Suborder:

Serpentes

Family:

Pythonidae

Genus:

Python

Species:

Blood Python

Distribution area:

Southern Thailand to the Malay Peninsula, etc.

All large pythons, including the Indian Python, African Rock Python, and Burmese Python, have records of being massacred in large numbers for their exotic skin, which is purchased by the international fashion industry. Young snakes are exported for the pet trade, and their blood and bile are habitually used as traditional medicinal materials in some tribes, so they have quite a lot of interaction with humans.

It is advisable to keep pythons as pets. Currently, there are no professional breeding farms for pythons in China, but many zoos and parks have python specimens. In the past, due to a lack of comprehensive observation and understanding of the wild ecology, habits, and activity patterns of pythons, the breeding and management work failed to meet the needs of pythons, resulting in a considerable number of pythons not being kept alive. In recent years, some breeding units have improved their breeding and management methods, which has increased the survival rate of pythons. However, so far, there are still very few pythons that can reproduce and grow under artificial breeding conditions, and further exploration is needed in the breeding work. At the same time, it is reminded that units and friends who want to keep pythons must learn solid breeding techniques and can only purchase and breed pythons with the permission of the relevant departments. Blind introduction should be avoided to avoid breaking the law.

1. Parasites

It is very important to eliminate these parasites in order to keep your snake healthy and long-lasting.

Use tweezers to remove snake mites and apply antibiotic ointment to the wound at least once a day for at least a week. Systemic antibiotic treatment is often necessary as snake mites can transmit bacterial diseases while feeding.

You can use mite sprays (containing dichlorvos), insecticidal sprays, or pyrethroid. Put the mite spray in a small bottle (with holes in the lid) and place it in the snake enclosure for three to four hours, two to three times a week, for three weeks. When the mite infestation is severe, spray the snake and the enclosure evenly with insecticidal spray (10 mg per 945 ml of water) every four to five days. Although I do not use pyrethroids for internal nematode problems, I have not encountered any problems with pyrethroids at this concentration.

Take out the snake's water bowl until the medicine is completely dry before putting it back. Only use pyrethroids in well-ventilated snake enclosures. I have had good results using the following method: spray the snake and the enclosure with insecticidal spray for infected snakes, and spray the enclosure exterior and shelves with pyrethroid. You can also use pyrethroid on the enclosure exterior, but its duration of action is unknown. Thoroughly clean the snake enclosure and discard any items that cannot be cleaned before using any of these methods, as otherwise these treatments will be ineffective.

2. Gastrointestinal Issues

Many people find that their newly purchased pythons vomit, produce excessive mucus, have bloody stools, or smell bad. Gastroenteritis is usually caused by internal parasites, protozoa, bacterial infections, or improper care. Internal parasites and protozoa can be detected through fecal examination and can be easily treated with appropriate medication. Improper heating can cause a decrease in immune function and prevent proper digestion of food in the intestines. Excessive handling within two to three days after feeding can cause the python to vomit due to stress.

Bacterial infections are also common, as weak hosts provide opportunities for rapid bacterial growth. To maintain the correct bacterial balance in the intestines, pythons need regular feeding and excretion. Most imported pythons are malnourished and dehydrated, which exacerbates the imbalance of intestinal bacteria and leads to the growth of other bacteria. These snakes also often mix with many other snakes, exposing them to other infectious parasites, bacteria, and even viral pathogens. For mild symptoms, oral administration of metronidazole (25-40 mg per kilogram) can be given on the first and third days or as a single dose. Metronidazole is commonly used as an anti-protozoal medication, but it is also a good intestinal antibiotic, especially useful for hard-to-identify anaerobic bacteria. For more difficult-to-treat cases, the veterinarian may need to perform bacterial culture to prescribe the correct and effective antibiotics.

When faced with vomiting and diarrhea, it is important to suspend feeding during treatment to allow the intestines time to recover. Fluid therapy should be given unless it causes vomiting as well. If the python responds well to treatment, small and infrequent feedings can be initiated initially. For pythons weighing less than 1 kilogram, this means feeding a mouse or a very small rat every 7 to 10 days. If the python is eating and excreting normally, adjust the amount and frequency of feeding to the normal range within two to three weeks. Although pythons appear to be resistant to overfeeding, feeding too frequently can cause indigestion and gastrointestinal discomfort.

Blood Python Care Knowledge

The breeding method of Blood Python is oviparous. They usually lay eggs in the summer. In the wild, Blood Pythons hunt directly and prefer to eat mice. They can accurately bite the head of a small mouse and then coil around its body. They slowly swallow it after the mouse is completely dead.

Most female Blood Pythons have the habit of protecting their eggs. The incubation period generally does not exceed 60 days. During the egg-laying and incubation period, they are afraid of humans and should avoid external stimuli. Their aggression increases during this period. In captivity, the hatching rate can generally reach 80%.

If they fail to accurately bite the head of a small mouse while hunting and start coiling, the python's body will be bitten by the mouse. At this time, it should be decisive to use a straw to drop water on the mouth and nose of the mouse to speed up its death. If it needs to change position during the feeding process, use long tweezers to hold the tail of the mouse and move it. It is strictly forbidden to directly touch the python's body during the feeding process with hands or tools. Luring food is one of the important factors for successfully domesticating Blood Pythons, and it is also the easiest way to induce their unique "neurotic response", which can lead to domestication failure. If the initial lure feeding is successful, it enters the normal feeding stage.

Key Points for Feeding Blood Pythons

In general, Blood Pythons are not picky eaters, even if they refuse to eat, their hunger will not lead to death for a month. In the wild, Blood Pythons mainly prey on small mammals, birds, and reptiles to satisfy hunger. If they are kept in captivity, they can be fed with live bait such as mice and rabbits.

For newly imported Blood Pythons, small mice can be used as bait. Almost all snake species have a "neurotic response", which is manifested in being very sensitive to various external stimuli and having a violent temperament. It is recommended to choose CB individuals that have been domesticated for a long time. If the initial lure feeding is done improperly, it can easily cause loss of appetite, refusal to eat, and even death. Therefore, for the first feeding, choose individuals with medium or small body size, no pollution, and no special odor. The small mouse should be fed before feeding the python to prevent it from biting back. During the feeding process, always observe to prevent the python from being bitten by the mouse. The probing feeding time is 30 minutes. If the blood python has not started feeding by that time, immediately remove the food bait. Do not rush to feed or force feed after a week. Force feeding will only increase its sense of oppression and further refusal to eat. Generally, pythons, due to their unique physiological structure, will not be affected even if they have not eaten for several months. Smoking, flashing lights for photography, and other external stimuli are strictly prohibited during the entire feeding period.