Megasoma joergenseni

The Megasoma joergenseni is a small beetle species native to Argentina and Paraguay. It measures about 3-4.5 centimeters in size and has a single protrusion on its chest. The entire body is covered with grayish-white fine hairs. Its elytra lack luster and have wrinkles. There are two subspecies of this species, the original subspecies Megasoma joergenseni joergenseni has flat white and sparse hair, while Megasoma joergenseni penyai has a higher density and is more yellow in color.

The Megasoma joergenseni, also known as the "约更生小毛象大兜虫" is a subspecies native to northern Argentina. It is covered with grey-white fine hairs, which are sparse and overall whitish. It has a single protrusion on its chest, and its elytra lack luster and have wrinkles. The female has punctured plates on the anterior dorsal side of the mesothorax. The Megasoma joergenseni pantherensis subspecies is distributed in Paraguay and has a more yellowish and denser hairy body.

Loved by climbing pet lovers, it is recommended to keep the Megasoma joergenseni. The larval rearing cycle of the Megasoma joergenseni is one year, just like that of rhinoceros beetles. However, both the food intake and space required are much smaller than that of rhinoceros beetles. It belongs to the delicate and adorable type of beetle!

After a period of growth, the third-instar larvae enter the final stage, during which their bodies will gradually turn yellow and wrinkle. After a while, the larvae will create a pupation chamber by smearing their feces on the walls of wood shavings or by compacting the surrounding wood shavings to form an oval space as the pupation chamber. The pupation chambers of Hercules beetles and rhinoceros beetles are slightly tilted and upright, while other larvae generally make horizontal pupation chambers. For example, the Kenyan flower beetle makes a pupation chamber similar to a golden tortoise, and the South Asian beetle requires a relatively solid pupation medium, so the wood shavings must be compacted very firmly or yellow clay must be used as the pupation medium, otherwise the South Asian larvae will go out of control, lose weight, and may even die.

The suitable rearing temperature for adults is generally around 20 to 26 degrees. This temperature is applicable to the majority of species, except for high-altitude species such as Megasoma joergenseni and Megaceras oceanus, which require lower rearing temperatures, usually around 20 degrees. Prolonged high temperatures can cause problems such as rotten eggs. For robust species such as Allomyrina dichotoma, natural temperature rearing is also possible, but under temperature control conditions, larger individuals are more likely to appear.

After the adults emerge, they can start breeding in about a month. Both beetle species and dynastid beetles have strong mating desires. As long as the female is not paying attention, gently place the male beetle on the female's back. If both are mature, they will generally start mating immediately after this. It is best to pay attention throughout the mating process, especially for aggressive species like Oryctes rhinoceros, otherwise the result may be unfortunate... For less aggressive species like Lucanus cervus, they can also be kept together for about a week before oviposition, by then most of them have already mated. After mating, the adult beetles can start oviposition. If you are worried that they have not mated, you can mate them multiple times, or you can let the male and female beetles oviposit together, but this is only suitable for less aggressive species with a mild temperament. The common breeding setup for beetle species and dynastid beetles is relatively simple. Use a suitable container and fermented sawdust. Compact the lower layer of sawdust and loosely spread the upper layer, and then place bark and jelly (tree leaves can also be added, but it is not necessary). During oviposition, it is advisable to provide the female beetle with high-protein foods such as bananas and high-protein jelly, which can to some extent increase the number of eggs laid. It is recommended to mix 1 liter of sawdust with 1 liter of water when fermenting the sawdust, so that the humidity is moderate. You can also judge whether the sawdust is suitable based on the feel. Squeeze a handful of sawdust tightly and it should have a slight seepage of water but no dripping. After releasing it, the sawdust can be clumped together. When shaken, it will break into multiple pieces. There should be a slight moist feeling on the hand. If the food is found to be eaten or spoiled during oviposition, it should be replaced immediately.