Red Arowana

[Common Name Alias] Swordfish

[Latin Name] Xiphophorus helleri

[Geographical Distribution]

North and Central America, Mexico, Guatemala; introduced to Africa, Sri Lanka

[Adult Body Length]

100-120cm

[Temperament]

Gentle

[Suitable Temperature]

21-28℃

[pH Level]

pH 7.0-8.0

[Hardness]

dGH 12.0-18.0N

[Activity Level]

Top level

[Reproduction Method]

Viviparous

　 The Xiphophorus genus belongs to the viviparous live-bearing fish family. The lower lobe of the caudal fin is long and resembles a sword, sometimes reaching twice the length of the body. It is a relatively easy-to-keep tropical freshwater fish variety. The physiological development of swordfish exhibits sexual reversal, with fish that have completed the sexual transformation exhibiting male habits and functions. The breeding method is similar to that of guppies.

　 The swordfish body is olive or red, with a deep red stripe on the middle sides from the gill cover to the tail, with light blue borders above and below the stripe. There are red spots on the dorsal fin. The most prominent feature of swordfish is the elongation of the lower end of the tail fin in males, with the sword exceeding the body length, hence the name. The sword is green or orange with black edges. The coloration of females is less vibrant than that of males, and they lack the sword-like tail. Swordfish are prone to hybridization, and through hybridization with molly fish and continuous artificial selection and cultivation, there are now different colored varieties such as red swords, yellow swords, and mandarin swords. The all-red red sword, which is completely red, is as vibrant as red velvet. The tail sword can be single or double.

　 Swordfish have strong adaptability and can grow and reproduce in water temperatures of 20-25℃, weakly acidic, neutral, or slightly alkaline water. The most suitable growth temperature is 24℃. They are omnivorous and eat the feed and artificial feed that tropical fish love. Despite their "swords," swordfish are not combative. On the contrary, they have a gentle and kind temperament and never bully weaker or different species. They can be easily mixed with other tropical fish. Hybrid varieties, such as the red sword, grow quickly, have strong bodies, are easy to raise, and have higher ornamental value.

The Red Arowana in China may be the reddest fish in the world. Whether it is a wild fish or a cultivated variety, in terms of individual redness, there is no species that can rival the Chinese Red Arowana. Chinese people love red and pursue redness, so ornamental fish must have a kind of ultimate redness.

The Red Arowana is the most valued among all Swordfish by the Chinese people. When it was first introduced to China, the Red Arowana was orange-red in color, with faint dark stripes left by its ancestors on its body, black eyes, and a black line below the tail of the male. This characteristic has hardly changed on the Red Arowana in Europe and the United States, and it is still the same today. But the Chinese people wanted it to be even redder. Firstly, through selective breeding, we removed the black line on the tail of the Red Arowana, then we turned their eyes red, and finally, even the white eyes turned red. Still not enough, so we continued to deepen their red color, and finally, in the 1990s, a variety called Cinnabar Red Arowana was born. It is a unique cinnabar color in China, and it is heavy and layered, as if it was painted with lacquer on the fish's body. This even makes it difficult for photographers to focus accurately on this species.

It is recommended for aquarium enthusiasts to keep Red Arowana, also known as Swordfish. The original color of this fish in the wild is light blue-green. The biggest feature of Red Arowana is their swordtail, with females lacking the swordtail. Red Arowana is a common and essential species in aquariums, with relatively easy care and maintenance.

Saprolegniasis

Red Arowana's saprolegniasis, also known as water mold disease, is also influenced by the duration of its exposure to light. Prolonged rainy weather or insufficient indoor lighting, sunlight, and other light sources can promote the growth of mold. The fish infected with mold usually have a layer of white film on their skin, especially the black and red fish, which lose their natural luster. They become sluggish, often floating on the water surface. If not treated in time, the mold will spread, causing the affected muscles to rot, reducing appetite, and eventually leading to death.

[Treatment]Saprolegniasis can occur throughout the year, with the most common cases in early spring and late winter. To prevent the occurrence of water mold disease, attention should be paid to minimizing damage to the fish body and preventing parasitic bites. A small amount of salt can be added to the water to inhibit the occurrence of water mold disease. When the fish is found to be infected with water mold disease, it can be immersed in a 3% saltwater solution for 5-10 minutes once a day, or soaked in a solution of 2ppm potassium permanganate and 1% salt for 20-30 minutes. It can also be soaked in a solution of 1-2ppm methylene blue for 20-30 minutes, or washed with a solution of 5ppm furazolidone. Additionally, a solution of 0.3ppm formaldehyde can be directly poured into the aquarium to inhibit the growth of mold. Increasing the water temperature can also inhibit the growth of water mold. Installing a 15-watt ultraviolet lamp at the top of the aquarium and exposing it for a few hours each day can effectively inhibit or eliminate the growth of water mold.

When raising a Red Arowana, it is best to control the water temperature around 25-28 degrees Celsius (use a specialized thermometer to measure the water temperature in the fish tank). The male Red Arowana will develop a sword-like tail when mature, while the female's tail is fan-shaped. Prepare a fish tank according to the number of fish, and try to make it larger to provide more space for the fish to move. When there is a lack of oxygen, the fish will gather near the water surface. At this time, you can turn on an oxygen machine for oxygen supply. If there is no oxygen machine, you can replace some water for the fish. Use a suction pipe to remove dirt from the bottom of the tank, and replace about one-third or half of the water. Too much water replacement can cause discomfort to the fish. Clear water does not necessarily mean there is oxygen in the water. Try to avoid touching the fish when suctioning or adding water to prevent injury to their fins. If you don't want to change water frequently, it is best to feed the fish live worms. Feed them once a day. Also, prepare a heating tube, especially during cold weather.

The necessary equipment for raising tropical fish:

(1) Fish tank: It is the place where tropical fish grow and move. The fish tank for raising tropical fish should be a slightly larger rectangular glass fish tank.

(2) Suction pipe: Used to remove dirt from the bottom of the tank when changing water, connected with a soft rubber pipe and a glass pipe. The length depends on the height of the fish tank, generally ranging from 1.2 to 1.5 meters.

(3) Thermometer: Used to measure and adjust the water temperature in the fish tank.

(4) Fish net: Used for fishing and transferring tropical fish.

(5) Glass lamp barrel: Put the light bulb into the glass lamp barrel and immerse it in the fish tank for heating and lighting purposes. The opening of the glass lamp barrel must be 100mm above the water surface to prevent fish from jumping in.

(6) Heating tube: Used in winter to increase the temperature in the fish tank.

(7) Air pump: Used to expel carbon dioxide from the fish tank and increase the oxygen capacity in the water.

(8) Filter: Filters out impurities in the fish tank, maintains water quality cleanliness, and serves the dual purpose of increasing oxygen content and purifying water quality.

(9) Thermostat: Used to automatically control the temperature in the fish tank, can maintain a constant temperature for a long time.

(10) Feeding funnel: Prevents fish food from floating on the water surface, facilitates fish feeding, and prevents fish food from falling into the water and getting stuck in the aquatic plants, causing them to turn black and deteriorate the water quality.

(11) Dirt remover: Made of plastic board. Used to scrape off dust and oil stains from the water surface of the fish tank.